Break-up of the ice on Algonquin's lakes is usually complete between
late April and early May. May can bring very warm weather, but days of
rain or even snow with temperatures hovering near the freezing point
can also occur. In May the average daytime high is 17 C, and the
overnight low 2 C. These cool temperatures limit the population of
biting insects, and for those who simply have to escape to the
wilderness after a winter of cabin fever, early May can be a good time
to travel. For expert whitewater paddlers, the rapids on the eastern
Petawawa River offer their highest water levels and greatest excitement
at this time of year. Both flatwater and whitewater paddlers must
remember that water temperatures are still close to freezing, and an
accidental upset that would be harmless in mid-summer can easily result
in death from hypothermia.
By late May the bright green new leaves of the deciduous trees are
visible everywhere, and the days are warming rapidly. However, by this
time the population of blackflies is also growing rapidly, and many
experienced travellers avoid camping in the park in June. The mosquito
population peaks slightly later than the blackflies, typically in late
June, but these pests are also present in overwhelming numbers. For
those willing to endure the bugs, average daytime highs in June are 23
C, and overnight lows 10 C.
Fortunately, by early July the blackfly population is in decline, and
by the middle of the month it is usually possible to travel with only
occasional resort to insect repellent or other countermeasures. This is
the warmest part of the summer, with average daytime highs of 24 C and
lows of 12 C. The lakes are now warm enough for swimming. Days of
extreme heat (over 30 C) and drenching humidity are common. These days
frequently end in evening thunderstorms, which can be intense.
By August days are shortening noticeably and evenings can be cool, but
the lakes are still warm enough for swimming and few biting insects
remain. Average August temperatures are only a degree cooler than in
July. Calm mornings frequently bring billowing clouds of fog as water
evaporates from the warm lakes and condenses in the cool air above. The
lakes often appear at their most beautiful as distant islands and
points emerge from the dawn mist. In my opinion, this is the best part
of the Algonquin summer, and the peak of canoe season. It is now
possible to travel without using insect repellant at all if one is
willing to swat an occasional mosquito or horsefly and put up with a
few bites. Although there is less usable daylight, the evening sky is
now black and starlight correspondingly brilliant.
By late August the leaves of the maple trees are showing a reddish
tinge, and over the next month the appearance of the park now changes
on almost a daily basis. Fall colors are most spectacular in the
hardwood hills on the southern side of the park, easily reached from
Highway 60.
The combination of intense fall colors and the relative lack of crowds
can make September an ideal time for canoe travel. However, nights can
be very cold at this time of the year, and frost is not uncommon, so
proper clothing and a warm sleeping bag are essential. In September the
average daytime high is 19 C but the overnight low is only 7 C, and
these values fall rapidly as the month progresses.
By early October most of the leaves of the deciduous trees have fallen,
and the park takes on a barren, stubbly appearance. The weather is now
unpredictable, and anyone canoeing in the interior must be prepared for
high winds, rain, overnight temperatures far below freezing, and even
snow.
By early November ice is beginning to close off the lakes, marking the
end of canoeing season.
Bugs
In late spring and early summer the density of blackflies, mosquitoes
and other winged pests in Algonquin is staggering. Blackflies are
particularly obnoxious since their bites cause little immediate pain,
but may lead to a severe reaction and swelling. The first sign of a
blackfly bite is often a stream of blood trickling down an arm or face.
When travelling between late May and early July, some strategy for
protection against insects is essential. Repellants containing 15% or
more diethyl toluimide (DEET) work well if applied liberally every two
or three hours. Solutions of 15% to 30%DEET in alcohol
are available under various trade names. Studies have shown that
concentrated DEET is no more effective in repelling insects than the
15% solution, but the more concentrated solutions seem to remain
effective longer. To deal with blackflies it is necessary to work the
repellant into one's hair and seal off sleeves and pant cuffs, since
these insects prefer to crawl into confined spaces before biting.
DEET is disgusting stuff, with an oily feel and the smell of a chemical
factory. It is also an extremely good solvent, capable of dissolving
most plastics and stripping paint. The combination of these problems
and growing concerns about the possible health hazards of DEET have led
many travellers to seek alternatives. In cool weather it may be
possible to avoid bites simply by wearing a full set of clothing. The
material has to be tightly woven, since mosquitoes are quite capable of
biting through thin fabrics. A slippery surface also helps, since it
prevents insects from obtaining a firm grip. Insects prefer dark colors
such as black and deep blue, while bright whites and yellows may have a
slight repellant effect. Jackets and pants are, however, out of the
question when portaging packs or canoes on a hot day. Repellants based
on natural ingredients such as citronella may be tolerably effective in
these situations.
The bugs posing the worst problem in late summer are large biting
flies. When travelling under calm conditions in swampy terrain such as
oxbow river channels stable flies tend to gather in the bottom of the
canoe, darting in for guerilla attacks on legs and feet. Still larger
deer flies or horse flies prefer to attack from overhead. All these
large flies can usually be dealt with by paddling quickly and seeking
windy surroundings wherever possible. Since the number of insects
attacking at any one time is usually small, swatting can be an
effective countermeasure. Wide-brimmed hats are an effective deterrent
for horse flies and deer flies.
Wildlife Watching
One of the attractions of Algonquin is the abundant populations of
birds and large mammals which, due to the ban on hunting in most of the
park, are often non-chalant regarding the presence of humans. Michael
Runtz's The Explorer's Guide to Algonquin Park provides a
wealth of
information on the best times and places to observe Algonquin's fauna,
and is highly recommended for those whose primary interest is wildlife
viewing. Only a few notes on the most common species are given here.
For many canoeists the highlight of an Algonquin trip is a moose
sighting. An adult bull moose is well over 2 m tall and may weigh as
much as 500 kg. Any party travelling for a few days in the interior is
almost certain to have at least one moose encounter. In our experience
the marshy sections of the Crow River and western Petawawa River offer
good opportunities, although moose are seen on occasion almost anywhere
in the park. Chances of sightings are best in the early morning or
evening, and rather obviously improve if one is careful to travel
quietly. If current or wind is used to drift by a moose while keeping
very still, it is sometimes possible to come to within a few meters of
the animal. Although in summer moose are usually placid, care should
always be taken in approaching the animals, particularly bulls. Bulls
are extremely dangerous and unpredictable during the fall mating
season, and moose should not be approached during this time. Moose
present relatively little risk to a canoe in deep water, but can charge
very effectively on land. If a moose blocks the path on land or in
shallow water, there isn't much to do but wait until it decides to
move.
Compared to moose, most of the other large mammals in Algonquin are
timid and seen only rarely. White-tailed deer might sometimes be
sighted in a clearing along a portage trail, but will run as soon as
they sense humans. River otter may occasionally be seen fishing along
lakeshores. Beaver are primarily nocturnal, and are sometimes seen
swimming past a campsite in the dusk. Signs of beaver construction
activity- dams, lodges and food piles- are seen everywhere in the park,
and can pose irritating obstacles on shallow waterways such as McIntosh
Creek or Otterslide Creek. Black bear seem to be spotted more
frequently along the park roads than on the lakeshores of the interior.
On late summer nights wilderness campers might be fortunate enough to
hear some of Algonquin's 300 resident timber wolves howling. Howling is
used as a location mechanism to allow adult wolves returning from
hunting to rendezvous with waiting pups. The wolves are extremely wary
of humans, and are almost never sighted.
If any species symbolizes Algonquin, it is surely the common loon.
These can be seen- and heard- on even the most crowded and urbanized of
lakes.
Other commonly-sighted birds include Mergenser ducks, great blue heron,
osprey and hawks. Herons tend to favour marshy regions along river
banks, while the birds of prey prefer areas with high cliffs such as
Otterslide Creek or the Barron Canyon.